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Black mascara will always have its time and place, but for many Allure editors, the best brown mascaras are the ones they reach for most often for a more subtle look—and makeup artists do the same. "I just think there's something really fresh about [wearing softer colors], and it allows for all the other makeup products that you're wearing to look even less makeup-y," says New York City-based makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes. And what better way to kick off your soft-girl era than with brown? It's a happy medium between black and even more vibrant mascaras like neon green or burgundy. Call it a low-risk, high-reward endeavor.

Whether you prefer lengthening, volumizing, or waterproof formulas, the best brown mascaras will offer all that black mascaras do—but never look too harsh or overwhelm your eyes. Take a peek at our favorite browns ahead.

Our Top Brown Mascaras

• Best Overall: Tarte Tartelette Tubing Mascara in Brown, $28
• Best Lengthening: Maybelline New York Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara in True Brown, $14
• Best Tubing: Urban Decay Tube Job Tubing Mascara in Brunette Brown, $25
• Best Volumizing: YSL Lash Clash Extreme Volume Mascara in Brown, $34
• Best for Separation: Ilia Limitless Mascara in Before Dawn, $29

Frequently Asked QuestionsAccordionItemContainerButtonLargeChevron

• Why should I choose brown mascara?
• How to apply brown mascara
• Meet the experts
• How we test and review products
• Our staff and testers

Best Overall: Tarte Tartelette Tubing Mascara in Brown

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Tarte

Tartelette Tubing Mascara

$28

Amazon

$28

Ulta Beauty

$28

Sephora

Allure commerce market editor Sarah Hoffmann applying the Tarte Tartelette Tubing Mascara in Brown

Sarah Hoffmann

Why we love it: Yes, the XL version of this Tarte mascara is technically the Best of Beauty winner, but our editors reach for the original Tartelette Tubing Mascara just as often. In addition to Brown, it comes in a boatload of other fun shades, such as Magenta and Navy, so you have a hue for every mood. One of our go-to tubing mascaras for quite some time, Tartelette is designed with almost 300 bristles (296, to be exact) to separate and lift your lashes for a bit of drama, but nothing over the top. It's buildable but never clumps, and skin-care ingredients such as conditioning shea butter and moisturizing castor oil keep lashes soft and flexible, never stiff. Best of all, at the end of the day, your “lashes” slide off with a bit of warm water—no tugging or wrestling (or lost lashes) needed.

Hoffmann before applying the Tarte Tartelette Tubing Mascara in Brown

Sarah Hoffmann

Hoffmann after applying the Tarte Tartelette Tubing Mascara in Brown

Sarah Hoffmann

Tester feedback from commerce market editor Sarah Hoffmann

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"I was a brown mascara skeptic for a long time because if I'm going to spend precious morning time putting mascara on, I want drama," says commerce producer Sarah Hoffmann. “What's dramatic about a natural brown shade? Well, I'm mature enough to admit when I'm wrong because Tarte's Tartelette Mascara has officially converted me to the slightly lighter side. The shade is a nice, true brown, not too warm-toned, and the stiff wand evenly distributes the product throughout for long, fluffy, natural-looking lashes.” —Sarah Hoffmann, commerce market editor

More to know

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• Benefits: curling, long-wearing, lengthening
• Key ingredients: shea butter, castor oil
• Waterproof: no, but listed as sweatproof
• Total shades: 6

Best Lengthening: Maybelline New York Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara in True Brown

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Maybelline New York

Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara in True Brown

$14 $11 (21% off)

Amazon

$14

Ulta Beauty

Han applying the Maybelline New York Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara in True Brown

Sarah Han

Why we love it: Originally launched in 2021, the TikTok-viral Maybelline New York Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara has clearly proven its staying power—even in the crowded, constantly-innovating drugstore mascara market. Years later, our editors call it a reliable fave, and one they'd actually buy with their own money. (At less than $15, and often on sale, it's practically a no-brainer.) The True Brown is obviously the highlight here: true to its name, the color is not too deep, not too light. The wand itself is very flexible, so you can truly wiggle up and down your lashes to coax as much length as possible—and trust us, it offers a lot of length. After just two coats, your lashes look like you've applied falsies…without the pain of, well, applying falsies. It's also infused with bamboo extract and fibers that attach to your lashes, making them look thicker and fuller without weighing them down.

Han before applying the Maybelline New York Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara in True Brown

Sarah Han

Han after applying the Maybelline New York Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara in True Brown

Sarah Han

Tester feedback from commerce editor Sarah Han

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“This Maybelline mascara may just hold the record of the mascara I've been loyal to for the longest. That's not to say I don't like/use other mascaras—clearly I do, based on this list alone—but I rarely never have one of these Sky High tubes on hand…and often backups. It does a fabulous job at coaxing a lot of length out of my dismal, teeny-tiny lashes—even without a lash curler, but I always use one anyway. It rarely clumps, either, which is a huge pet peeve of mine. It's a truly reliable formula down to the bone. I'm also a big fan of the burgundy shade!" —Sarah Han, commerce editor

More to know

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• Benefits: volumizing, lengthening
• Key ingredients: bamboo extract
• Waterproof: no
• Total shades: 9

Best Tubing: Urban Decay Tube Job Lash Augmenting Tubing Mascara in Brunette Brown

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Urban Decay

Tube Job Tubing Mascara in Brunette Brown

$25

Ulta Beauty

Allure beauty director Sarah Kinonen applying the Urban Decay Tube Job Tubing Mascara in Brunette Brown

Sarah Kinonen

Why we like it: Our editors seriously love tubing mascaras, but the fact that Urban Decay's Tube Job Lash Augmenting Tubing Mascara comes in not just black and brown, but a dark-blonde taupe, auburn red, and bleached platinum, gives it an edge up amongst its peers. Formula-wise, Tube Job is infused with hyaluronic acid, peptides, and castor oil to keep lashes fluttery and flexible, and never dry and clumpy—and despite the skin-care-forward formula, it's water- and smudge-resistant. The tapered conical applicator features the brand's tiniest bristles, which grab onto every itty-bitty lash for all-day lift and volume.

Kinonen before applying the Urban Decay Tube Job Tubing Mascara in Brunette Brown

Sarah Kinonen

Kinonen after applying the Urban Decay Tube Job Tubing Mascara in Brunette Brown

Sarah Kinonen

Tester feedback from beauty director Sarah Kinonen

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“While I love the look of jet-black mascara, there’s something so familiar and comforting about a brown-hued version. Maybe it’s because the shade is closer to the color of my lashes, or that when it’s removed, it looks less extreme. Whatever it is, I’m currently in my brown mascara era with Urban Decay’s new tubing formula and don’t see a way out. It’s got all the bells and whistles of a tubing mascara (easy removal, no clean-up) but wears like a classic. Even though I have a zillion (give or take) other mascaras to test for work, I keep coming back to this one. It easily fans out (and lengthens) my little lashes, doesn’t clump, and pairs with any look no matter where I’m going: the office, or in a booth of a crowded Brooklyn restaurant.” —Sarah Kinonen, beauty director

More to know

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• Benefits: volumizing, lengthening, lifting, easy removal
• Key ingredients: hyaluronic acid, peptides, castor oil
• Waterproof: no, water-resistant
• Total shades: 5

Best Volumizing: YSL Lash Clash Extreme Volume Mascara in Uninhibited Brown

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YSL

Lash Clash Extreme Volume Mascara in Unhibited Brown

$34

Nordstrom

$34

Sephora

Allure social media manager Bianca Richards applying the YSL Lash Clash Extreme Volume Mascara in Brown

Bianca Richards

Why it's worth it: What higher honor for a brown mascara than a 2025 Best of Beauty Award for best colored mascara? YSL's Lash Clash Extreme Volume Mascara in Uninhibited Brown—a name that draws you in right away—boasts an oversized, conical brush that coats every lash, lifting and thickening them for a bold, voluminous look. (After all, it’s in the name.) The extra tapered tip does an excellent job latching on to even the tiniest of inner-corner hairs. Whether you're a one-and-done person or consider three layers, at minimum, to be your norm, Lash Clash is a keeper.

Richards before applying the YSL Lash Clash Extreme Volume Mascara in Brown

Bianca Richards

Richards after applying the YSL Lash Clash Extreme Volume Mascara in Brown

Bianca Richards

Tester feedback from social media manager Bianca Richards

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“No matter what it comes down to, I will forever splurge on the YSL Lash Clash mascara since it gives me that voluminous, wispy finish for my almond-shaped eyes. Not only does the brown shade add that playful and effortless look for no-makeup makeup days, but the rich chocolate hue helps to accentuate my dark brown eyes.” —Bianca Richards, social media manager

More to know

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• Benefits: volumizing, thickening
• Key ingredients: shea butter, castor oil, camellia flower extract
• Waterproof: no
• Total shades: 4

Best Curling: Tower 28 MakeWaves Mascara in Drift

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Tower 28

MakeWaves Mascara in Drift

$20

Amazon

$20

Sephora

$20

Credo Beauty

Allure commerce editor Sarah Han applying the Tower 28 MakeWaves Mascara in Drift

Sarah Han

Why it's worth it: Similar to the rest of the brand's offerings, Tower 28's MakeWaves Mascara is non-irritating and made with sensitive skin in mind. This 2022 Best of Beauty Award winner features a curved "Triple-Wave Wand" comprised of three flexible suspended bands to lift and coat every single lash. The formula employs Aquaflex Technology (typically used in hair-care products) to hold the curl of the eyelashes without sacrificing softness, and it also helps boost humidity and water resistance. Our best tip? Use the shorter bristles on the inner side of the curve to amp up the volume, then go in with the longer bristles to lengthen and define. Multiple coats look great with this mascara, too.

Han before applying the Tower 28 MakeWaves Mascara in Drift

Sarah Han

Han after applying the Tower 28 Beauty MakeWaves Mascara in Drift

Sarah Han

Tester feedback from Han

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"I've never fully vibed with black mascara, which I find often makes my eyes—which are very dark to begin with—look heavy. I feel the same way about black eyeliner, for the record. When Tower 28 launched MakeWaves in Drift, an espresso brown, I instantly knew it'd become a regular in my rotation. The formula is super buildable without reaching clumpy territory. That's key because my lashes need multiple layers to appear visible on-camera, and the innovative, curved brush maximizes length and curl rather than one over the other." —Sarah Han, commerce editor

More to know

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• Benefits: lengthening, curling, conditioning
• Key ingredients: Aquaflex Technology, castor oil blend
• Waterproof: no
• Total shades: 2

Best for Separation: Ilia Limitless Mascara in Before Dawn

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Ilia

Limitless Mascara in Before Dawn

$29

Amazon

$29

Nordstrom

$29

Ilia Beauty

Former Allure senior commerce editor Sarah Felbin applying the Ilia Limitless Mascara in Before Dawn

Sarah Felbin

Why we like it: “Clean beauty” is a term too frequently slapped onto labels without a second thought, but Ilia is one of the handful of brands that actually meet our standards and have both Readers' Choice and Best of Beauty Awards to its name. For example? The Limitless Lash Mascara has picked up six Readers' Choice Awards and one Best of Beauty Award to date. While it's not the most dramatic option on this list, it is a fantastic everyday mascara that gives your lashes a subtle effect that looks like your natural lashes, but just a little longer, lifted, and always defined. The crowning feature is the double-sided wand, which features one side of shorter, denser bristles to boost volume, while the other side features straight, comb-like bristles to lengthen and separate hairs.

P.S. Limitless is also one of our favorite mascaras for older women. “It stretches the lashes beautifully and keeps them flexible, which matters because mature lashes can be more fragile,” Magen Grays, a makeup artist based in Atlanta, previously told Allure. “I also love that it doesn’t flake or transfer easily, so you’re not constantly checking under the eyes,” Grays adds, nodding to the formula's conditioning blend of shea butter, glycerin, and peptides.

Felbin before applying the Ilia Limitless Mascara in Before Dawn

Sarah Felbin

Felbin after applying the Ilia Limitless Mascara in Before Dawn

Sarah Felbin

Tester feedback from former senior commerce editor Sarah Felbin

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“I wear brown mascara more than I wear black—I love how it makes my green eyes pop and how it's so perfect for every day, when black can sometimes feel too harsh or dramatic. Ilia's Limitless Lash is a beautiful dark brown that actually darkens, lengthens, and defines my eyelashes. I could talk about the non-smudging, non-flaking formula all day (and I have, as someone with oily eyelids who's been through more subpar mascaras than she can count). But my favorite feature is the double-sided spoolie. One side has shorter bristles that coat every lash in a layer of product. The other side has longer, stiffer bristles that comb through each lash, for maximum lengthening potential. I've never gotten more compliments on my lashes than when I've used Ilia mascara. It's a forever favorite!” —Sarah Felbin, former senior commerce editor

More to know

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• Benefits: lengthening, separating
• Key ingredients: shea butter, glycerin, biotin, arginine, peptides
• Waterproof: no
• Total shades: 2

Best for Sensitive Eyes: Glossier Lash Slick in Brown

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Glossier

Lash Slick in Brown

$20

Sephora

$20

Glossier

Former Allure senior news editor Nicola Dall’Asen applying the Glossier Lash Slick in Brown

Nicola Dall'Asen

Why it's worth it: Lash Slick is one of Glossier's first-ever—and best-selling—products, intended to give a natural, no-makeup look that enhances what you've already got going on. A nourishing formula featuring vegan biotin and vitamin B5 wraps around, lengthens, and lifts each lash for an extension-like effect. If your lashes droop by midway, just know that won't happen with this weightless formula. Bonus: Natural shine polymers add depth and—you guessed it—shine to your lashes.

Dall’Asen before applying the Glossier Lash Slick in Brown

Nicola Dall'Asen

Dall’Asen after applying the Glossier Lash Slick in Brown

Nicola Dall'Asen

Tester feedback from former senior news editor Nicola Dall’Asen

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"I feel totally naked without mascara, but I don't always want the full-throttle look of your standard black shade. Glossier's Lash Slick in Brown provides lengthening yet whisper-light coats in a warm brown tone, probably similar to your natural lashes if you're a brunette, for a 'Wait, are those real?' kind of look." —Nicola Dall’Asen, former senior news editor

More to know

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• Benefits: lengthening, volumizing, and conditioning
• Key ingredients: vegan biotin
• Waterproof: no, water-resistant
• Total shades: 2

More brown mascaras we love:

Best Waterproof: Dior Diorshow Waterproof Mascara in Chestnut

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Dior

Diorshow Waterproof Mascara in Chestnut

$35

Nordstrom

$35

Sephora

Why it's worth it: Dior's Diorshow Waterproof Mascara is a 2023 Allure Best of Beauty Award winner that the pros constantly gush about. New York City- and Stockholm-based makeup artist Linda Gradin and New York City makeup artist Deanna Melluso adore the dark brown hue, Chestnut, and its long-wearing formula. "It lasts all day with no smudges," says Melluso. “It's a deep brown that is fabulous for hazel eyes to emphasize the green or purple tones.”

P.S. If you don't need a waterproof formula, we think Dior's Diorshow 24H Buildable Volume Mascara in Brown is equally stunning.

More to know

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• Benefits: long-wearing, lengthening
• Key ingredients: castor oil
• Waterproof: yes
• Total shades: 3

Best Brown-Black Mascara: Clinique High Impact Mascara

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Clinique

High Impact Mascara

$27

Amazon

$27

Nordstrom

$27

Ulta Beauty

Why it's worth it: New York City-based makeup artist Steven Canavan loves Clinique's High Impact Mascara—which comes in a brownish-black simply named Black/Brown—for defining lashes and enhancing the intensity of any eye color. The original black mascara is a classic known for dramatic results, but with this color, you can expect the same thickening and volumizing finish on a slightly more modest scale. Its buildable, no-budge formula also means you can layer this shade without finding any flakes or smudges around your eyes at the end of the day.

More to know

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• Benefits: defining, volumizing, thickening
• Key ingredients: urea, glycerin
• Waterproof: no
• Total shades: 3

Frequently Asked Questions

Why should I choose brown mascara?

Brown mascaras are ideal for accentuating lashes without looking like makeup was applied. According to New York City-based makeup artist Steven Canavan, "Brown mascara is best if you're looking to achieve a more natural look, and black [is best] if you want more drama." Sure, you could spare some change for a lash lift or extensions to create a similar finish, but if you don't want to spend your coins on monthly treatments, brown mascara is a much more accessible option.

On top of affordability, New York City- and Stockholm-based makeup artist Linda Gradin notes that these mascaras can add more dimension and enhance the color of your eyes, depending on the shade you use. "For a darker eye, a nearly black or dark brown mascara adds definition, but a classic brown gives a softer impression," she says. "For lighter-colored eyes, true-to-light brown mascaras are most flattering, as they can bring out gold, green, or grey highlights in your eyes that black can't."

How to apply brown mascara

However you prefer to wear makeup is your business, but there are some general best practices. If you have straight or downward-pointing lashes, prep them with a curler. Then ensure you pick up an even amount of product on the mascara wand—swipe off excess product against the perimeter of the tube opening as needed—so you end up with clump-free, perfectly separated lashes. Starting at the base of your lashes, lightly swipe up, coating each lash. To separate your lashes while you apply, wiggle the wand as you sweep the formula toward the tips. Repeat as needed for your desired results and keep in mind that some mascaras dry faster than others.

If you really want to make your eye color and shape stand out, Gradin recommends pairing your brown mascara with a dark brown, charcoal, or black eyeliner pencil.

Meet the experts

• Steven Canavan, a New York City-based makeup artist
• Linda Gradin, a New York City- and Stockholm-based makeup artist
• Deanna Melluso, a New York City-based makeup artist

How we test and review products

Before reviewing any makeup, we ask questions about a number of factors: What ingredients are in it? Does the brand offer a wide, inclusive shade range with all skin tones and undertones? Is it safe for readers who have sensitive skin or wear contact lenses? Is it on the affordable side or more of a splurge? Is the packaging consciously designed or needlessly wasteful?

For our review of the best brown mascaras, we enlisted the help of multiple editors, writers, contributors, and makeup artists. This ensures our testing base spans different skin tones, genders, and dermatological conditions. We considered each product's performance across four primary categories: ingredients, wear and longevity, packaging, and inclusivity. For more on what's involved in our reporting, check out our complete review process and methodology page.

Our staff and testers

A beauty product is a personal purchase. You might be searching for a face cream to address persistent dryness, a new nail product to add to your Sunday self-care routine, or you may simply be browsing around for the latest launches to hit the hair market. No matter what you seek or your individual needs and concerns, Allure wants to ensure that you love anything we recommend in our stories. We believe that having a diverse team of writers and editors—in addition to the wide range of outside testers and industry experts we regularly call upon—is essential to reaching that goal.

After all, can we really say a skin-care product is the "best" for people over 50 if the only testers we've solicited opinions from are folks who have yet to hit 30? Can we honestly deem a high-end diffuser worthy of your hard-earned cash if it's never been tested on curls? We're proud that our staff spans a wide range of ages, skin tones, hair textures, genders, and backgrounds, which means that we are able to fairly assess any beauty product that comes into the beauty closet.

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There’s a lucid rebellion bubbling within the walls of Broadway’s Studio 54 theater, the kind that transcends space, time, and earthly norms. It’s a revolt against societal bounds, a nostalgic renaissance honoring then and now, and a revelation of beauty for the “others” of this planet and the ones beyond our realm.

Dammit, Janet, it’s Rocky Horror!

Helmed by Tony Award-winning director Sam Pinkleton, the 2026 revival of The Rocky Horror Show is a true masterclass in delicious deviancy, a glitter-bombed portrait of humanity at its most free and fearless. The story follows newly engaged couple Brad Majors and Janet Weiss who, confronted with car issues on a treacherous and stormy night out, stumble across a mansion of misfits led by Dr. Frank-N-Furter, a gender-bending scientist with a thirst for depravity. The cosmic creatures they encounter inside lead them on a journey of self-discovery, seduction, and sexual liberation, leaving audiences to wonder what planet these otherworldly characters may have come from.

Richard O’Brien’s The Rocky Horror Show first premiered onstage in 1973, inspired by the decades of science-fiction and gothic horror films that preceded it, before being turned into a film two years later that has developed a massive cult following. This is largely due to the movie’s midnight showings, where fans come dressed in the film’s iconic costumes, shouting lines and call-backs from their seats as they revel in Rocky’s unapologetic nature. The show’s roots are centrally grounded in queer and drag culture—the characters come from the planet “Transsexual in the galaxy of Transylvania,” after all—with its themes of liberation, freedom, and passion serving as safe “come as you are” or “come as you wish to be” messaging for those who have entered the fan base over the years.

Concerns from legacy fans that the revival may not reach expectations are squashed roughly 20 minutes into the 2026 production when Luke Evans—standing at 6’8” in stiletto heels, equipped with Frank-N-Furter’s iconic cherry red lip, green-glitter eye shadow swept across his lids, and a shoulder-grazing rock-star shag—makes his glorious entrance with a rendition of “Sweet Transvestite," that permeates your soul. In that moment, Evans’s stature and presence are so enrapturing, he could make the Mona Lisa quake in antici…pation.

Luke Evans as Frank-N-Furter.

Evans’ full Frank-N-Furter hair and makeup.

But the colorful parade of excellence that takes the stage at Studio 54 eight times a week is a true testament to collaboration. Each detail of the production has been handled with care, not a single eyelash left unnoticed by the show’s hair and makeup team led by hair and wig designer Alberto “Albee” Alvarado and makeup designer Sterling Tull.

In bringing Rocky to life, both designers drew inspiration from the Club Kids, those exuberant, fashion-obsessed personalities who ruled and fueled New York City’s nightlife in the 1980s and ’90s. They also wanted to pay tribute to the show’s influence from and in drag culture, not solely acknowledging how the role of Frank-N-Furter defies gender norms, but also how Rocky has introduced liberation to countless young people over the past 50 years.

“Drag is so dependent on your self-expression that I wanted that to be communicated through [each performer’s] makeup looks, so I wanted to give the actors the freedom to find those characters,” Tull explains of the time they took with each performer to carefully uncover how these modern interpretations of famed characters would come to life. “[Throughout the process], some looks were psychotic, some were pretty, some were total Club Kid clowncore, until we settled and found something that they really vibed with and wanted to apply on their face eight shows a week.”

Evans in the makeup chair.

That is abundantly clear in Evans’s Frank-N-Furter, whose electrifying aesthetic is both reminiscent of the character’s famous roots while also a complete departure from the famed source material. Gone are Tim Curry’s colorless face palette and short curls, and in their place: bold, painted-on brows, seafoam green-glitter eyelids, and a wig so fabulous, Evans can’t help but twirl its ends numerous times throughout the show (when he’s feeling flirty, you know?).

“The first day I put Luke in Frank-N-Furter makeup, Sam told us to ‘go really small,’ and I said, ‘Great!’ And then I did not go very small; I went very Siouxsie Sioux, Club Kid drag…and Luke loved it,” says Tull. According to Evans, it’s his exaggerated brows and the “sharp, smoky intensity around the eyes” that are key to his transformation, allowing him as Frank to “control the room, seduce everyone, and destroy people a little bit at the same time,” he says. “There’s something almost cinematic about this version of [Frank-N-Furter]—beautiful, dangerous, and sexy.”

In selecting his wig, Alvarado explains, “[With Frank], there’s some sort of Christ-like Jesus complex where people are so drawn to him and revere him, and so the long hair, for me, was a nod to that.” With a lived-in texture, “this version feels more rock star than cabaret…like Frank has been awake for three days hosting some beautiful, chaotic party in another dimension,” Evans says, adding that the longer, looser shape “gives him a more sensual masculinity, which I think makes him feel both more dangerous and more vulnerable. I wanted audiences to feel like they couldn’t quite place him in a specific era or category. He’s glamorous, but untamed.” Ultimately, for Evans, the wig is a "huge part of unlocking my Frank…The second it goes on, my posture changes, my energy changes, and Frank arrives.”

Evans in final hair and makeup checks backstage.

The choice to give Frank-N-Furter a wig with visible green roots was not only intentional, Alvarado says, but a throughline that echoes the show’s core theme of acceptance. “I always hoped that [the roots] would be green to show that [Frank] was trying to cover up what he really was, and now he's starting to embrace it, and he's starting to see his true self with his real green hair coming in.” That “true self” pointing to Frank-N-Furter’s comfort within his own skin, liberated of any societal norms that could keep him from tasting his earthly desires.

This root-ful message even trickles down to the show’s Phantoms—four members of the ensemble that serve as Rocky’s Greek chorus, who Tull describes as each possessing unique, flavorful notes of “Club Kid clowncore.” Though traditionally made to blend in, Tull and Alvarado wanted to breathe life into each Phantom, styling them based on specific icons of queer culture like Amanda Lepore. Their wigs range in color, including soft pinks and blondes, with highlights of tinsel throughout—a nod to the full tinsel wigs that didn’t make the cut (in this instance, there is such a thing as too much sparkle). “[The Phantoms] are such a heartbeat of this show,” Alvarado says.

Amber Gray as Riff Raff.

As Columbia, Golden Globe winner Michaela Jaé Rodriguez is the ultimate showgirl. To craft Rodriguez’s take on the character, while paying homage to Nell Campbell’s famed portrayal of the flirtatious tap dancer who is the most theatrical in Frank-N-Furter’s troupe of misfits, Tull pulled inspiration from vaudevillian icons and starlets like Sharon Tate, “who has a very tragic end to her story, much like Columbia,” she explains. This took the form of colorful, exaggerated eyebrows, pastel blush that can be seen from space, and glitter galore. The purple hues used throughout the makeup reference royalty, while the gold shimmer on Rodriguez’s eyes draws from the original production, culminating in the perfect concoction of regality, old celebrity, and vaudevillian iconography.

Columbia’s wig was created with a similar sentiment, holding true to the character’s famed bright red hair, updated for this production with finger waves and short pigtails. “We wanted to keep [Rodriguez’s] playfulness,” Alvarado adds, “which is why you see all of those hair decorations that are put in haphazardly,” adding a nice, spirited contrast to Columbia’s regality.

For characters like the Riff Raff (Amber Gray), the castle’s spooky caretaker who sits right at Frank-N-Furter’s side, “the most important thing to me was silhouette,” Alvarado says. In their designs, both he and Tull wanted to acknowledge that Gray is a woman of color playing this traditionally male character, not shying away from the drag king reality taking stage in this portrayal.

Riff Raff’s complete hair and makeup.

Gray transforming into Riff Raff backstage.

Following a similar silhouette to Richard O’Brien’s original Riff Raff, Alvarado collaborated with Gray on a wig consisting of firmly laid blonde braids that hang down her neck. “It’s an honoring of my hair [as someone who is] biracial…It’s the perfect combination in keeping a wig that would be made for my hair type as well as the original silhouette,” Gray says.

Tull paired this with makeup that can best be described as “alien punk,” emphasizing Gray’s natural features with heavy contour, black lipstick, and darkened teeth to create a skeletal aesthetic that uplifts Riff Raff’s frightening demeanor. “The truth is,” Gray tells Allure, while getting prepped backstage before a Thursday matinee, “that I’m a very outside-in actor. So when I stare in the mirror in my costume, in the wig, and in the makeup, I understand how to play the role.”

Harvey Guillén as Eddie.

The drag king inspiration continued with Harvey Guillén’s portrayal of Eddie, the show’s rock-and-roll ghost who survives just one scene before being chainsawed to pieces. Tull drew inspiration from old Broadway makeup that is “specifically over the top,” best showcased in Guillén’s massive black eyebrows that are dusted with enough glitter to shine for those seated at the top of the balcony.

“A big throughline with a lot of the people in the castle, including Eddie and the Phantoms, is that they all kind of have a Frank-N-Furter shape to their eyes because they're, in my head, being infected by him,” Tull explains. “These Transylvanians, who might be aliens or might once have been human, have become so deranged over time and become little cultish Frank-N-Furter creatures, and that's how I really felt about Eddie.”

Alvarado’s wig choice for Eddie resembles classic biker mullets and updos from the 1960s. Given Eddie is a fully comedic role, Alvarado was intentional in not wanting to cheapen the character’s aesthetic in a laughable manner, but rather, to make Guillén as “hot” as possible. “There’s something so much more powerful about making them look really beautiful and letting them be funny by choice,” he says.

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It's a stark contrast to the second role Guillén plays in the production: Dr. Scott, a much more demure-looking gentleman compared to Eddie’s rock 'n roll flair. Guillén begins the show in Dr. Scott’s ensemble, then, after just one number, bolts to the theater’s basement to be transformed into Eddie, where, in the nick of time, he is able to make it back onstage for his star number. Only to return to the basement shortly after, peel out of Eddie-drag, and back into his full Dr. Scott look to finish the show. The whole journey is a true testament to the creative team’s excellence.

Josh Rivera as Rocky.

Then there’s Rocky (played by Josh Rivera), the show’s meticulously crafted specimen who Frank has created for NSFW purposes. “I really wanted to create a femme Rocky,” Tull says, laughing, “and Josh said he’s never felt as masculine as when he was in full baby doll glam.”

In the storyline, “Rocky is seven hours old; they were just born today,” Tull says, “so the makeup needed to explain that. This person put on this makeup without any knowledge of makeup, but they’re doing it because it makes them feel good; it makes them feel sexy.” Tull executed this by giving Rocky bright pink blushed cheeks, baby blue eye shadow, and bold bottom lashes, achieving a youthful glow that sparkles onstage.

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Rivera enjoys the freedom his makeup chart allows, exploring the beautiful possibilities that come with a bright blush palette and bountiful amounts of glitter. “During previews, I started [extending the blush] to my nose too, so I get a little Rudolf-chic kind of thing. I just think it’s cheeky.” He jokes, “We are singlehandedly propping up the glitter industry right now.”

While Rocky is typically portrayed as a classic, naturally blonde hunk, Alvarado chose to create a wig that “looked like what his hair would look like if we actually bleached it, which is why there is still root in there,” he says. And don’t worry, the hunk aesthetic remains untouched.

The Rocky Horror Show pridefully struts forward on the tails of its famous legacy while beaming with modern flair and electricity. There is simply too much to appreciate in one viewing. I am on my fourth visit to Rocky, with many more to come as the show continues to run through the fall on Broadway, and each subsequent evening I spend in Transylvania makes one point abundantly clear: There’s a light over at the Frankenstein place, and if my research is correct, that light may just be a spotlight reflecting off the pounds of glitter scattered across the Studio 54 stage. And what a marvelous sight it is.